The Story: 3rd Feb 2018
Among the many wonderful memories collected during a journey, a few unpleasant ones always remain. Ironically, these often become the stories we remember most vividly. During our Nagaland tour, we encountered one such experience, courtesy of our transport operators.
The longest and most frustrating episode occurred during our journey from Mokokchung to Mon.
Before I say about this experience let me write few lines about these two beautiful places of Nagaland
Mokokchung
Mokokchung is one of the district headquarters of Nagaland. Unlike many towns, Mokokchung is remarkably clean and beautiful. However, the villages around it are even cleaner, more beautiful, and more disciplined than the town itself.
Cleanliness can be seen in every corner, discipline is reflected in every household, and the silence spread across the length and breadth of the village becomes its music. Plastic bags and wrappers are nowhere to be found. The villagers do use plastic, but they do not litter their surroundings with plastic or any other waste. Spending a day or two in such a village was a refreshing and inspiring experience.
The village in the photograph lies near Mokokchung.
Longwa village: Mon district
One of the most famous places in Nagaland is Longwa Village in Mon district, known for its unique culture, the Konyak tribe, and the house of the Angh (King). The Konyaks are renowned for their traditional facial and body tattoos and for their headhunting practices during ancient tribal wars.
The photograph shows the famous house of the Angh(King). What makes this house extraordinary is that the international border between India and Myanmar passes right through it. The corridor serves as the border line, while even the kitchen extends into both countries. Standing at the entrance, the left side belongs to Myanmar and the right side to India. A single household, yet part of two nations.
The Konyak people traditionally practice shifting cultivation, locally known as jhum cultivation. They clear and burn patches of forest, cultivate crops on the land for two consecutive years, and then leave the area untouched for several years. During this period, nature gradually restores itself, allowing the soil to regain its fertility before cultivation returns to the same land. This age-old practice has sustained their agricultural lifestyle for generations.
Mokokchung to Mon
The longest and most frustrating episode occurred during our journey from Mokokchung to Mon. Ten of us had purchased tickets for a shared Sumo vehicle, which departed around 7:00 AM. Instead of taking the commonly used route, the driver chose the Mokokchung–Mon road via Longleng, a route that few drivers would normally prefer.
The road was in terrible condition and appeared to serve only the nearby villages. Unfortunately, the vehicle itself was in an even worse state. Its speed rarely exceeded 20 km per hour, and every hour the driver had to stop because the engine overheated. Armed with a small jug, he would search for water to cool it down before continuing.
None of us understood why he had chosen this route.
At around 2:30 PM, the driver stopped at a place called Aboi near a small roadside hotel. Assuming it was a tea break, we all stepped out and had tea. Soon we noticed our driver was busy repairing another Sumo that had broken down nearby.
We expected him to resume our journey once the repairs were complete. Half an hour passed. Then an hour. Then two hours. Finally, after nearly two and a half hours, he was still underneath the stranded vehicle. Whenever questioned, he avoided giving a clear answer, and none of us even knew how far we were from our destination.
By the time darkness had completely settled in, the driver finally informed us—quite rudely—that he would not be driving any further. He claimed that he had been sent only to repair the other vehicle, as both Sumos belonged to the same owner.
I immediately called the booking counter. The owner answered briefly and said, “Ab baat nahi karega” (“I will not talk now”), before hanging up.
Only then did we realize what had happened.
The driver had deliberately taken us via Longleng so that he could reach and repair the stranded vehicle. In effect, the owner had recovered the cost of transporting his mechanic and repair team from the fares paid by us passengers.
What a remarkable display of business ingenuity—at our expense. Bravo! As darkness deepened, all ten of us were left stranded in Aboi, desperately searching for alternative transport. Unfortunately, it was already too late to find another vehicle, and our adventure in Nagaland acquired one of those unforgettable memories that travelers never plan for but rarely forget…
Dear friends, thanks for reading. Your suggestions and views for improvement are highly appreciated. Do comment in the below box and share among other readers if you found it eligible to share.
Leave a Reply